Multi-Pitch Climbing in Galtür
Multi-Pitch Climbing in Galtür
Galtür is one of the most impressive destinations for multi-pitch climbing routes in the Tyrolean Alps. Nestled in a high alpine landscape, striking rock faces and quiet valleys create varied climbing experiences with stunning views – from enjoyable tours to demanding alpine lines.
The multi-pitch routes around Galtür stand out for their variety and quality. Solid rock, well-thought-out route lines and reliable protection provide ideal conditions for long days on the wall. Whether gaining first multi-pitch experience or tackling long, technically demanding routes, the area caters to a wide range of abilities and difficulty levels.
The experience is enhanced by the remarkable tranquillity and unspoilt nature of the surroundings. Away from busy hotspots, climbers can immerse themselves in an authentic alpine setting where climbing and nature merge into one.
Highlights in Galtür
- Multi-pitch routes in a high alpine setting
- Varied tours for beginners to advanced climbers
- Solid rock and diverse route lines
- Quiet, less crowded climbing areas
- Impressive mountain scenery with far-reaching views
Multi-Pitch Climbing in Galtür
In September 2024, six new climbing routes were established on the north side of the Ballunspitze (2,671 m) in the Silvretta Group between Tyrol and Vorarlberg, inviting you to enjoy new alpine adventures in the region. The mountain panorama is hard to beat and the rock quality in this area of the Ballunspitze is excellent. The compact crystalline rock is reminiscent of the legendary granite climbs on the Swiss Grimsel Pass. The north side of the Ballunspitze offers ideal climbing conditions, especially on hot days. In midsummer, the sun does not reach this part of the wall until late afternoon.
A total of seven climbing routes, covering 580 metres of compact rock, were drilled. Most routes are well-secured with bolts, offering moderate difficulty for a safer multi-pitch climbing experience.
„Zigarren für die Chefin“ 5a
„Rosen für den Boss“ 5b+
„Habe di Ehre“ 5a
„Bergfreiheit“ 5c
„Hardi Gatti“ 5a
The only more challenging routes are ‘Captain Ballun’ and ‘Grosse Verschneidung’ in the left part of the wall. There, you need to be able to manage the level of difficulty, as the distances between the hooks are greater, especially in the easier lengths (2nd pitch), and depending on the weather, short passages can be wet.
Key facts at a glance:
- Difficulty: 3+ to 6a
- Route length: 140 – 60 m
- Number of routes: 6
- Sea Level: 2,220 – 2,350 m
- 50 m to 130 m
- Very well equipped with bolts
- Equipment: 12 quickdraws, 60 m double rope or 80 m single rope
Ballunspitze sector:
The newly renovated alpine multi-pitch routes offer ideal climbing conditions. In summer 2024, all stands were renewed so that abseiling from every pitch is possible without any problems.
Key facts at a glance:
- Difficulty: 3c – 6b
- Route length: 260 – 285 m
- Number of routes: 3
- Sea Level: 2,757 – 3,032 m
Overview Bürkelkopf:
Bürkelkopf Northwest Ridge:
Bürkelkopf Southeast Face:
In a high alpine setting with breathtaking views of the surrounding glaciers and the Jamtal, these beautiful climbing routes traverse the varied, grippy Silvretta gneiss. The changing colors of the rock and the stunning mountain scenery make each route a unique experience. Perfect for those seeking to combine challenging climbs with magnificent nature.
Key facts at a glance:
- Difficulty: 4+ – 7
- Number of routes: 11
- Altitude: 2,165 – 2,987 m
Jamtal Hinterer Satzgrat East Face Left:
Jamtal Hinterer Satzgrat East Face Right:
Jamtal Kaltenbrunnerwand Right:
Jamtal Westliches Gamshorn:
